Ricks!

Y'all know I love me some India. So when I saw my friend over at La Alta post this video about a day in the life of a rickshaw driver in Bangalore (my adopted hometown), I had to reblog.


FOR HIRE! – BANGALORE RICKSHAW from Xaver Xylophon on Vimeo.

Reminds me of these guys:

These boys, who looked WAY too young to be driving, zipped us around Varanasi.

Wonder what their lives are like right now...

Fashion Moment

I don't post that often about high fashion, because - let's be honest here- the Gap sale rack is about as far as I go in the fashion world. But this was just too too beautiful not to share. 

As I may have mentioned a thousand times or so, I love India and one of the things I love most is the beautiful art the country produces. Textile-making is one of the oldest and most world-renowned of the Indian arts and designers and stylists in India are constantly searching for ways to utilize this traditional artistry in modern fashion. This video, produced by Vogue India, shows that when top design houses collaborate with Indian textile artists, the results are AMAZING.

While there are a lot of issues with this type of promotion - the incredible contrast between high-fashion and the lifestyles of the villagers in the video, the gross income disparity between the textile producers and the high-fashion designers, etc. etc. - I think the goal is a good one. Utilizing traditional art forms in contemporary fashion is one powerful way to preserve these traditions AND give opportunities to the artisans who make these products. It's exactly the same goal as fair trade workshops and cooperatives - using traditional skills to make new products that will attract consumers and keep artisans employed. So while there may be some serious issues inherent in the production of this video and these clothes, I think the effort of integrating high fashion and traditional crafts is a great step forward. Let's just hope it's not a passing trend.

And back to the fluffy: I would wear just about any garment in this video. Those shoes? I die. And I think I spotted my dream wedding dress, too -in case anyone can track it down on sale for me!  I'm also loving that they used Indian models - too often, I saw white girls all over the pages of Indian fashion mags.  So, overall, bravo Vogue India! Keep it coming.

Thanks to The Jade Bangle for the link!

Foreign Flicks

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So, here's how cool my friends are. Right now I have one friend in Paris doing a Fulbright study (Hi Ash!) and basically living the Parisian life of crossaints tous les jours and another old schoolmate who is taking a year to travel the world - starting in Japan and moving west (Go Jessica!). So I'm incredibly lucky to be following along on their adventures via their blogs - the next best thing to actually body snatching them and taking their fun adventures for my own!

The crazy thing is yesterday they BOTH posted about a seemingly simple experience: going to see a movie. But, of course they were both doing that in a foreign country (lucky dogs)-so naturally, their experiences weren't quite what they expected.

Ashley, in France, was disappointed that the popcorn was not accompanied by our compulsory neon yellow liquid artificial butter and that car ads displaced her favorite previews. Jessica, in India, enjoyed the assigned seating in her 1500-seat theatre - plus the crowd participation!

I love going to the movies in countries I visit - some tourists may think it's a waste of time when there are so many sights to check off the list - but if you're someplace a little longer it's a great break from the hustle and bustle. Plus, as these two bloggers experienced, it's a great way to discover nuances of a foreign culture that you might not otherwise see. In India, I remember the assigned seating (awesome!) as well as one particularly enjoyable snack - boiled corn (not popped!) with a variety of flavors. Of course, being me, I spilled mine all over the steps. I also remember seeing Avatar in a Tokyo theater where everything was super super modern and super super crowded. I got sick from the 3-d glasses and the heat of all the people in one small theatre. Anyways, just thought I'd share the coincidence of these two bloggers writing about the same kind of experience thousands of miles apart - and pass along their fun blogs to you!

Daily Photos

Is there a city you love as a second home? That you think about often - even feel homesick for?
That's how I feel about Bangalore. Located in the south Indian state of Karnataka, this booming city has an incredibly vibrant economy yet still maintains many of the traditions of the region. It's an amazing place where every turned corner brings something new - be it construction for a brand new fast train or a lovingly maintained neighborhood shrine. I haven't been back to Bangalore in 4 years, so I keep in touch thanks to Rajesh Dangi's photo blog Bangalore Daily Photo. Walking around the city, camera in hand, Rajesh captures simple moments that the average person might simply miss - but that the homesick traveler will surely love.  

Roadside breakfast - idli sambar.

Fish seller sipping chai

Selling pots and pans

Lalbagh Gardens

Rangoli

Evening stroll in Lalbagh

Homesick for another city? Check out daily photos from Paris, Chicago, London, Cairo and Shanghai.

Ommmmmmmm

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Let me just start out by setting the record straight. I'm not a hippy-dip. I don't wear clothes made from hemp, or burn incense or decorate with crystals. I do practice yoga, but only because it's offered for free during my lunch hour at work. As much as I like the nap-part at the end, I'm really there for the work out rather than any type of spiritual enlightenment.

However, I did want to share with you an interesting experience I had at yoga on Monday. We had a new instructor who was definitely drinking the kool-aide. Every time we went backwards, she said "Look to the past with an open heart." Which was kind of a cool saying, but also a bit outside my comfort zone when it's said to a room of women in spandex bending in unnatural ways.

At the end of the session, she asked us all to join her in saying the word "Om". Being the good student I am, I joined in. And the surprising thing? I got chills. It felt like there was a vibration in the room; an energy. I've gotten that feeling a few times before in a variety of settings - church, travelling, being outdoors on a gorgeous day.

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History of the word "Om" is a very interesting subject. I remember from my time in India - where Om symbols are everywhere, even painted on the outside of a home near our school- learning that some scholars believe a variety of cultures and religions have valued derivations of the word "Om" as holy words. Most notably, they argue that "Om" and "Amen" are linguistically related. Similar words have been identified in Greek, Egyptian and Islamic traditions. The theory is that the word and it's relatives has a power transcendent of religious, geographic and historical boundaries.

Honestly, as crunchy as it may be I love this idea. I'm all about there being something larger that unites and overshadows religious differences. So while I don't know that I'll be adding "Om" to my normal rotation of words, I like that saying it has reminded me of the interconnectedness of this world we call home.

Anything for Love

***Before you read this post, I suggest you switch your Pandora station to Meatloaf and crank "I Would Do Anything For Love." Now continue reading...

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While many of us have been focused on the right to marry here in the U.S. since President Obama made his landmark remarks in support of gay marriage, a group of Indians having been fighting age-old prejudice and cultural mores to help young people marry for love in their country. Despite rapid modernization in the country, arranged marriages are still the prevalent form of marriage in India. Furthermore, traditional families will only consider individuals from similar castes, or class groups that share traditions, economic status and even dialect, as potential spouses for their children.
I have mixed feelings about arranged marriage - I've known people who've had successful and unsuccessful arranged marriages - as well as successful and unsuccessful love marriages. I do believe there is something to be said for the wisdom of parents and grandparents choosing a mate based on compatibility that allows for passion to grow later on. In some ways, it's a beautiful tradition that has been corrupted by reality: not every family can find a good or kind partner for their child and not every child is willing to sacrifice their choice of partner for their parents'.

In extreme cases, which are still disturbingly common, young adults - mostly women - who have committed to a relationship or marriage outside of their caste are murdered by family and community in an attempt to restore the family's honor. Knowing this, young people who want to marry for love may fear for their lives and seek assistance in convincing their parents to consent - or running away.

That's where the Love Commandos come in. As their website states, the three commandos - business men who aid both Muslin and Hindu youngsters- are "dedicated to helping India's lovebirds who want to marry for love."
Their cause is not easy, safe, or even cheap - operational costs are up to $5,000 a month to provide transportation, shelter and legal services to young couples. But they are committed to their cause - helping eradicate the bindings and social divisions of caste by supporting inter-caste marriage.
How about that, a happy news story!

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For more info, check out this BBC article on the Commandos. Donations are accepted on the Love Commandos website.

A Lonely Planet

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I have a friend who was selected for an awesome fellowship job working with schools in India! I am so excited for her - and maybe a teensy bit jealous. Not surprisingly, she felt some ....reluctance.... from her family. A young woman travelling alone in India? Is that safe??

I talked about travelling to "safe/unsafe" places in this post, but I think there are certain considerations solo women travelers need to make in addition to the general, "everybody take care" kind of advice.

First off, I've notice that some people (mostly men) have been confused about this topic - why should traveling - or life in general - require more precautions from women then men? I think it's hard for men to conceptualize some of the things that women face daily - and may take for granted. I, for one, won't park next to windowless vans, keep my cell phone in one hand and my keys in another when I'm walking alone, always check the back seat of my car, etc. When I told The Boy all of this, he was floored. Little boys are (often) raised with a more laissez-faire, "the world is your oyster" mentality. They go out and do crazy things and get bruised and everyone shakes their heads and says "that's a boy for you." On the other hand, girls are taught early on that the world is dangerous to them - and it is. In most places, women are more likely to be victims of sexual assault, rape, and domestic violence. The world is not yet an equal place, and even developed-world women need to take care. Travelling doesn't necessarily make women more likely to be victimized, but it should inspire caution.

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That being said, in my experience, travelling alone can be amazing - and very safe. There's no thrill quite like stepping off a plane and finding that you can be anyone and do nearly anything you might want. The limitations of your day-to-day life - job responsibilities, family expectations - stay on the tarmac as you venture out into a new cosmos of possibilities. I think every woman should do some travelling on her own, even just to say "I did it." So here are my top tips for solo travelling for the ladies:

-Be conspicuous. The single most exhilarating and frightening thing about traveling alone is the fact that you no one knows what you are doing or where you are. Sure, it's great to decide to get up early to watch the sunrise at Hampi or spend a day in front of your favorite painting at the Louvre without anyone complaining. But the flip side is that if no one knows where you are, there's no way to know if you're missing. So make yourself, and the basics of your plans, known to someone: leave an itinerary at home and check in routinely with a friend or family member, be friendly with the hotel staff and let them know when you plan to be back, learn your neighbors' names and wave when you get home. When you're out exploring, be visible as well - chat with people, make eye contact (if that's acceptable in the local culture), - whatever you need to do to draw just enough attention so that if something happened, people would notice.

-Don't draw the wrong kind of attention. Being visible and conspicuous is helpful - to a limit. Regardless of whether it's right or wrong, wearing revealing clothes, being overly friendly with men or ignoring local cultural conventions makes women all the more likely to experience some kind of negative situation. In many cultures, including the US, women who are seen to be "asking for it" won't get a lot of help in a sticky situation. Sucks, but it's true.

-Stay with the group. Go places where other women go and avoid areas where you don't see women at all. There may be a cultural norm you're not aware of that causes some segregation between the sexes. You don't want to step over those lines if you can help it. 

-Keep your purse safe. If you carry one, it's probably just natural for you to sling it around, set it under tables and rummage through it on the bus. In a lot of countries, pickpockets see this behavior as an invitation to rob you. Get a purse like this with security features, or at least with a zip closure. Cross-body bags are harder to swipe from your hands -- just make when you're walking on the sidewalk that your bag is away from traffic. Thieves drive cars and ride in rickshaws, too. Always keep copies of your travel papers - passport, credit cards, visas - in your hotel or apartment, in case all fails and you do get robbed.

-Be aware of cultural stereotypes. This one is tricky. You want to make friends in a foreign culture, even have a little ... romance? But the trouble is, just as you may assume all Italian men are Romeos or all French girls love to shop, folks may assume certain things about you that are equally untrue. In a lot of countries (big breasted, blonde) American girls are thought to be easy - just think about the American TV and movies they get to see. This may very well color the ways both men and women treat you. I found this to be particularly true in India - men were overly friendly and optimistic, and women just gave me the stink-eye. 

- Embrace the experience. You're away on your own for a reason. Take time to enjoy being alone and do things that push you. Don't be afraid to eat out at a restaurant alone - with or without a book! Whatever you can't do at home, see if just maybe you could here... remember, as my Dad always said, you won't see anyone you know!

Travel well, friends.

E.

The Wild

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OMYGOSH can you believe this newest picture from Jon Rafman's Google Earth project? I so wish there was a location listed - the strolling tiger and the barren industrial park are just so incongruous that I can't figure out where this could possibly be.... any thoughts?

Have you had any interesting experiences with wild animals? I think I've told you about swimming with a capybara, the world's largest rodent, in Peru? He was very friendly .. I think his name was Charlie. 

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 I've had several encounters with monkeys that range from the cute and cuddly to downright SCARY. In the cities of India, smaller monkeys have learned to coexist with humans - mostly by acting cute and swiping food from al fresco diners. But in Kathmandu, we visited a temple inhabited by real big monkeys - the scary kind with big teeth that they bare at you at any sign of provocation. While we were touring the complex, a monkey attacked a couple walking by, even drawing blood!  Not so cute after all...

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And speaking of tigers, we visited the famous Bandhavgarh tiger preserve while in India. We took morning and evening safaris, riding in open air jeeps through the preserve, constantly on the watch for tigers. We were lucky to see several - it was amazing to watch those beautiful creatures float in and out of the shadows. They really are majestic. One day, a group on an elephant safari spotted a tiger and all the nearby jeeps crept close to watch. Suddenly, the elephant spooked and went crashing through the forest, jostling her passengers like rag dolls! Luckily, the tiger was disinterested in the whole spectacle...

What crazy animal stories do you have?

I KNOW I can.... (write a whole post on trains)

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Train travel always sounds like such a romantic way to get from point A to point B. It's like that scene from White Christmas where Bing Crosby and the gang board a train, dressed in their traveling best, (no sweatpants allowed) and gather in the dining car for a little after-dinner serenade about snow.

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But sometimes, things aren't quite so quaint. Remember when Carrie and Samantha take a train to California on Sex and the City? They expect Bing and ballgowns and end up with cramped quarters, motion sickness, and unsavory company.

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I've had a little bit of both extremes in my train travels. I took the sleek, modern Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo to Nara and the whole trip felt though we were barely moving at all. It was like riding a train in the future. 

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The opposite experience was riding the historic Durango and Silverton Railroad in the mountains of Colorado. The train, built in the late 1800s, was all glossy wood and bright yellow paint, hot from the coal engines that left smoke trailing through the air.

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On the not-so-great list: When I was a kid, we took a family trip from Indiana to Glacier National Park in Montana -- on Amtrak.  One night, late, a train-hopper got on and drunkenly sat down next to my grandma. The next thing we knew, she was covered with puke and the man was being escorted off the train. 

A rare moment of sleep in the train.

Even worse was a two-day trip on an Indian sleeper train. The trip involved police searches for a suspected bomb (it was fertilizer in a gallon bucket), whispered warning of a thief with a knife in the next cabin and little to no actual sleep. Additionally, in India, beggars are let on the train for free or a small fee. They spend their rides passing through each cabin, waving their hands wildly in tired faces until they are paid to leave. On our trip, we were encountered by a beggar with no legs who scooted himself around from cabin to cabin on his hands, filling his pockets with rupees.

So let's just say I am cautiously enthusiastic about trains. But there are a few amazing train trips that would bring me back on the rails again:

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How adorable is this car on the Shangri-La Express, which travels along the historic Silk Road? Sign me up.

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This is called the Tunnel of Love, in Kleven, Ukraine. I don't know anything about these tracks, but I want to be there.

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Finally, a dining car worthy of a pillbox hat, gloves and champagne on the Pullman Orient Express. Let's go!

Have you traveled by train? Would you? Do you have a train case just waiting to be used (I do!)

Traveler's A-Z

Apparently, all the cool kids in the travel-blogging club are doing this Traveler's A to Z, and tagging each other and giggling about it. I totally want in! So I'm borrowing the prompt from Adventurous Kate's page and doing my own! Suck on that, cool kids!

A: Age you went on your first international trip:

7. In the first grade, my parents took me to Scandinavia (Sweden, Norway and Denmark). We visited a friend of mine and her family in Stockholm, traveled on a sleeper train, and almost died in a blizzard. From then on, I was hooked!

B: Best (foreign) beer you’ve had and where:

Korean beer, from here.

I don't drink much beer here, but for some reason I really do like Asian beer. Kingfisher (India) and light Korean beers - with Soju.

C: Cuisine (favorite):

Pretty impossible to decide. I've had the best breakfast in Italy (fresh bread, cheese and milk), best lunches in India (homemade curries and salads thanks to Alice, our school cook), best dinners in China (all the amazing dumplings and traditional dishes) and best deserts in Paris (crepes, macaroons and chocolates). I also LOVE visiting McDonald's in foreign countries - though almost never here- just to try all their culture-specific offerings. McVeggie burger, anyone?

D: Destinations, favorite, least favorite and why:

So hard to decide, but I have to say India is still my favorite: Hampi, Varanasi and Calcutta are tops. For least favorite, I have to say Japan. I love-love-loved visiting my buddy there, but it's just one place I don't see myself going back to again and again.

E: Event you experienced abroad that made you say “wow”:

Travelling alone, no teachers or parents, for the first time in India. Dealt with getting lost, bomb-scares on trains, and being the only white person in an entire town. I love how traveling alone pushes you to connect with people.The scariest, and best, thing I've done as a traveler! 

F: Favorite mode of transportation:

Frighteningly young rickshaw drivers, Varanasi, India

Rickshaws! The speed of a car, the size of a donkey, and the navigation of a bat (I swear, it's all about the honking!) Plus, I love haggling over the price. The bullet train in Japan was pretty great too, but so expensive!

G: Greatest feeling while traveling:

Sharing a great moment with someone living a completely different life. I love when you're communicating with someone who doesn't speak your language, and you have that fun puzzle of trying to figure each other out. 

H: Hottest place you’ve traveled to:

India, again. We travelled to Agra, Jaipur and New Delhi in the heat of summer. Great, because there were very few other tourists. Just make sure to cover your head and bring plenty of water!

I: Incredible service you’ve experienced and where:

The fam and Abby at Explorama Lodge, Peru

@ Explorama Lodges along the Amazon River of Peru. We stayed in a few different lodges, each more and more remote and rustic, but the service at all was excellent. Abelardo -Abby, for short- was our private guide for the week. He took us canoeing and pointed out all the wildlife we could hope to see - including anacondas and sloths- in addition to serenading us with his excellent versions of the Beatles hits catalog...

J: Journey that took the longest:

Flying to Australia. Longest hours, made longer by traveling with a bunch of kids I didn't know (on one of those People to People trips). Australia; great. Traveling with other middle-schoolers; not so much.

Runner up: hiking in Nepal. We went only high enough to see Mount Everest-- no where near Base Camp, and it was so strenuous there were times I didn't think we'd make it. (Serious mountain climbing after spending 5 months eating curry in India = bad idea.)

K: Keepsake from your travels:

I'm terrible; I keep and buy everything and then slowly edit through the years. I really value pieces of jewelry I've picked up around the world.

L: Let-down sight, why and where:

You can barely see her! here.

 The Mona Lisa. It's so tiny! You wait in a huge crowd for a glimpse of a painting you've seen a thousand times in books and on tv, when there are so many other amazing things to see in the Louvre. Something you have to do in Paris, so do it, and move on -- quickly!

M: Moment where you fell in love with travel:

I don't think there was a single moment. I was so lucky to grow up traveling with my parents, that it has always felt like very necessary a part of life and who I am.

N: Nicest hotel you’ve stayed in:

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Easy, the Park Hyatt in Tokyo. This is the hotel where Lost In Translation was filmed. The top floor club has a 360 view of Tokyo -on clear mornings, you can see Mount Fuji towering in the distance. The pool even has wall to ceiling windows from which we watched one of Tokyo's few snowstorms - magical! Plus the toilets talk to you... but that's normal in Japan...

O: Obsession—what are you obsessed with taking pictures of while traveling?:

Goofy things - funny poses, Engrish signs, animals, whatever makes me smile :).

P: Passport stamps, how many and from where?

I don't know.... lots! I'm on my second Passport.

Q: Quirkiest attraction you’ve visited and where:

from here.

All over India, there are shrines called Shiva Lingam- very literal representations of male and female ... uh, union. I've seen ones where the male parts were taller than I am!

R: Recommended sight, event or experience:

Hampi

Here's two. In Paris, visit the flea markets -- it's a really neat experience. You get to take the train outside the heart of the city and see where the normal people live (and shop)!

Outside of Bangalore, India is Hampi - one of the most gorgeous historical sights I saw in that country -- which is definitely saying something! The sunrise there was one I'll never forget.

S: Splurge; something you have no problem forking over money for while traveling:

When I travel, I try not to think about the money. The worst is coming home and wishing you had done or bought something. I still regret not buying more jewelery in India - so much cheaper than here, and so unique! So I try to save money on things like lodging and food - great excuse to try cheap, delicious street food! - and spend more on experiences and souvenirs!

T: Touristy thing you’ve done:

 I do all the touristy things; I love them! There's a reason everyone's doing them, right? I take my picture in front of everything; sure you look like a dork doing it, but it's a great way to remember all the things you saw once you get home. To balance the touristy-ness, I make sure to spend extra time walking the streets of a place and getting to see the other side of the picture, too.

U: Unforgettable travel memory: 

In India, I spent a week working with a women's fair trade cooperative. Most of the ladies didn't speak English but they sat me down with them and taught me a few of the amazing embroidery skills that have been passed down through generations in their tribe. I'll never forget spending quiet afternoons pricking my fingers with needles and listening to them chat as their own fingers flew across the fabric.

V: Visas, how many and for where?

3: India - student visa. South Korea - worker's visa (to teach English). China - tourist Visa. SO lucky to be an American - it's relatively easy to go most anywhere.

W: Wine, best glass of wine while traveling and where?

I am not a wine drinker, but I recently had a great prosecco in Chicago.

X: eXcellent view and from where?:

Shanghai World Financial Building, the tallest tower in China, offers an amazing view of beautiful Shanghai. There's also a wax figure of my man Jackie Chan.

Y: Years spent traveling?:

All my 25, roughly. An international trip ever other year or so.

Z: Zealous sports fans and where?:

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England. They love their football - watch out if your in a pub on game day.
 And India, where cricket is king. SRK (Shahrukh Khan for the uninitiated) owns his own team and gave them all gold plated helmets.

Thanks for reading! XO, E.

Seven Super Shots

Hello travellers!

I'm taking part in Hostelbookers Seven Super Shots - a little travel blogger round robin, if you will. See my submission,  below!

A photo that... takes my breath away:

Utah, USA: This was taken near the Four Corners. Amazing, amazing clouds, bright blue skies, and the light was pure and crisp.

A photo that...makes me laugh or smile:

Bangalore, India: A perfect moment caught on film - I was riding a ricksahaw through town when this gent, surprised to see me in all my blonde-haired, blue-eyed glory, snapped a picture of me with his phone. I surprised him by doing the same! 

A photo that...makes me dream:

Near Pohang, South Korea: This was an amazing morning, with the mists rolling over the hills surrounding this temple.  I dream about who might have stood there before me, admiring the view.

A photo that...makes me think:

Bubaneshwar, India: Street dogs (and cows) are all over India and it was incredibly sad and disconcerting, especially in a culture where animals are often highly valued in religion. I carried snacks in my pockets to share with them from time to time, rabies be damned.

A photo that...makes my mouth water:

Bangalore, India: nothing is better than fresh fruit - unless it's artfully displayed fresh fruit on the side of the road in India. The start of mango season is like a holiday! 

A photo that...tells a story:

Wellesley, MA: This is a ground shot from my college visit trek around the Eastern seaboard - the journey that helped me discover Davidson and take the first steps towards my adult life ... in Vans, of course.

A photo that...I'm most proud of (my National Geographic shot):

Varanasi, India: I followed this priest away from the banks of the Ganges in order to snap a pic of him carrying holy water in his shiny tin pail.

I hope you enjoyed these pictures - looking through my albums, I felt a little sad and nostalgic, but also so grateful for all the amazing things I've been able to see.

See some other bloggers' submissions here, here and here.

Urban Art



As I've mentioned before, feathering my nest/apartment has been big on my brain lately and I have a major pinterest attack anytime I see something bright and snazzy that I can pick up (or just fantasize about picking up) for my pad. My latest themed obsession has been with graphic city posters. See below:

Banalore City Print by Fernando Volken Togni

I love this print. Love the little rickshaw. Love the bright spice market. Love the mix of old and new architecture. Love the little garden references - Bangalore is the garden city of southern India, you know. Oh, and if you're confused, Bengaluru is the more modern name for the city. The government decided to move away from the Anglicized city names (think Bombay, Varanassi) and pushed for a move to more Hindi-cized names (Mumbai, Benares) that are supposed to be closer to the actual historical names. FYI that! Also, Fernando has illustrated other cities as well, including faves like London, Paris, and Cairo.

Hong Kong Map Print via Etsy

Here's is another fun take on the city print. This gal Jenna Sue on Etsy takes maps of different cities and makes cool, graphic prints. They each feature only two colors which could be a really neat way to tie into the colors of your room. She already has cities from Akron to Yokohama covered, but if you don't see your ville you can order a customized print just for you!

Indiana print via Esty

So this print is neither international nor colorful, I now realize, but it is one I'd like to have on my wall regardless. Cities of Indiana arranged all neat and tidy in the borders of the state map. I'd want it customized with little red hearts leading from Indianapolis (where I live) to South Bend (where The Boy lives). That drive up 31 is etched on my heart (and tire treads).